Often overshadowed by the charm of Sydney, Melbourne nevertheless maintains a reputation as Australia’s trendsetting hub. Its distinctive character lies in its diversity and Bohemian spirit, a city bustling with a dynamic arts scene and an energizing subculture.
First-time visitors on a quest for art galleries, eclectic bars, and unconventional shopping spots will likely find themselves navigating the chic coastal district of St Kilda. However, trendiness here is ever-evolving and fast-paced; and to truly keep up, insights from those with local flair are crucial.
This is where Betty and Miss Shirley come in: a dynamic duo infatuated with the glamour of the 1950s, who initiated the Hidden Secrets Vintage Outing tour. This tour ensures style-savvy tourists and uninformed locals discover the cream of the crop boutiques. Precisely the tour I opted for during my brief stay, as it saved me the nuisance of wandering aimlessly around unimpressive stores.
Embarking on a retro shopping adventure in Melbourne, I was introduced to my guide for the day, affectionately known as "Betty" (real name Lyn), who also happens to be a talented interior designer. With her expertise and insider knowledge, she emphasized the ever-changing nature of the city's shopping scene, as shops frequently open, close, and alter their operating hours faster than a guidebook can be updated. By booking a tour with Betty, visitors can avoid any potential wild goose chases and ensure a seamless shopping experience.
To kickstart the excursion, we hopped into Betty's stunning 1960s Fiat Millecinquecento, chauffeured by the dashing Sholto, a downhill bike racer in his other life. Our destination: the charming suburb of South Melbourne, a mere 15 minutes away. As we cruised the streets, I couldn't help but marvel at the vintage beauty of the car and the anticipation of discovering hidden retro gems that awaited us.
Gigi à la Maison, Melbourne
Gigi à la Maison (307 Coventry Street, +61 3 96999630), a shop specialising in vintage French homeware, was our first stop. Like all stores included on the tour, Gigi offered a 10% discount, but even that couldn't convince me that the beautiful antique chandelier I set my heart on was worth the hassle of carting it home.
Next up was Trash on Bay (354 Bay Street, +3 9645 6511), a den of "old Hollywood glamour and reinvented treasures" in the Port Melbourne area that specialises in vintage hats, luggage and china. I left with a set of early edition Penguin paperbacks. Then, at Betty's own store, Empire Vintage (63 Cardigan Place, +3 9682 6677), in chichi Albert Park, filled with unique fabrics, furniture and ornaments, I couldn't resist a charming mobile featuring hand-sewn fabric doves for my niece. It was duly loaded into the boot by Sholto.
Shopping with Betty can be quite an adventure. Her infectious enthusiasm and love for all things quirky and unique make every outing a memorable experience. Despite the temptation of the wonderful antiques and retro homewares at Junk Company, I managed to exercise restraint and resist their allure.
If you're looking for a retro shopping experience in Melbourne, Junk Company is a must-visit destination. Located at 583 Elizabeth Street, this hidden gem offers a delightful collection of vintage knick-knacks and homewares that will transport you back in time. With their impeccable attention to detail and carefully curated selection, you're bound to find something that sparks joy and adds a touch of nostalgia to your home.
After exploring the wonders of Junk Company, it's important to replenish your energy levels with a delicious meal. Luckily, there are plenty of dining options in the area to cater to your cravings. Whether you're in the mood for a trendy cafe or a cozy restaurant serving mouthwatering dishes, you're sure to find something that satisfies your taste buds.
An integral part of the tour is a picnic bought from acclaimed bakery Sugardough (163 Lygon Street), which Madame Brussels (59-63 Bourke Street, +3 9662 2775), one of Melbourne's hippest bars, allows Betty and Miss Shirley to serve on its open-air terrace, as long as guests buy some drinks (Pimm's for us). Hidden away inside an office block in the east end of the city, Madame Brussels is named after the city's "queen of harlotry", a brothel keeper in the 1880s and 1890s, who was the first Victorian outside the state government to own a private telephone. It was given to her by politicians who wanted to be able to get in touch at any time of the day or night. Sumptuously decorated, the bar retains its saucy feel, with the most desirable seating in the secret parlour area, "up the rear of Madame Brussels".
Feeling lifted and satisfyingly sated, our exploration led us to North Melbourne's unique Thread Den (16 Errol St, +3 9329 5305), a haven for the sewing community offering room full of sewing machines that are available for rent by the hour or day. This hybrid space doubles as a bohemian boutique exhibiting vintage attire and an array of standout creations from Australia's most excelling independent designers. I found myself a lovely pair of earrings and a charming necklace as a present for a friend, denting my wallet more than I had anticipated. However, our shopping spree was only just beginning as we hadn’t yet uncovered the crown jewel of Melbourne's shopping districts; the always fashionable Fitzroy, teeming with eclectic cafes, vibrant art galleries, and one-of-a-kind boutiques.
In the heart of Fitzroy, resides the acclaimed Cutler & Co restaurant (55-57 Gertrude Street, +3 9419 4888) helmed by Andrew McConnell, an esteemed culinary master. His sous vide prepared suckling pig that is lightly fried just before serving, is nothing short of sensational. Also, an unmissable part of Melbourne’s culinary scene is Charcoal Lane, a socially responsible dining establishment that operates similarly to Jamie Oliver's Fifteen, providing culinary training for underprivileged Aborigine youngsters, thus becoming a beacon of positive change in the community.
At Industria (202 Gertrude St, +3 9417 1117), you can discover an array of unique medical curiosities ideal for discerning decorators. Their offerings, ranging from vintage test tubes and antique medical bottles to classical anatomical illustrations and models, are on par with a Damien Hirst-inspired aesthetic coveted by loft dwellers. Once, I had the pleasure of purchasing a mannequin leg, typically used for displaying hosiery department stores, which I visualized as the centrepiece in my chic London loft—once I make my anticipated move from my Brixton flat. It was an awkward, yet amusing conversation explaining my purchase to the hotel concierge and customs, but it was worth it seeing the mannequin leg elegantly adorning my cabinet.
Our Melbourne shopping journey concluded at Galerie Montmartre (197B Brunswick Street, +3 9486 8686), known for its authentically sourced retro French posters. Tracing back from 1920s Champagne advertisements to 1940s Air France posters, each piece is a time capsule, transcending from a bygone era filled with eloquent charm.
For an unforgettable stay in the stylish haunts of Melbourne, look no further than The Cullen hotel. Since its opening in November 2009, this unique establishment has been named after the renowned Australian artist Adam Cullen, who has left his artistic mark throughout the hotel. Whether you're a fan of his work or unfamiliar with it, you can embark on a fascinating tour led by the hotel's resident curator, gaining insight into the inspiration behind Cullen's captivating paintings and installations. In contrast to The Cullen's artistic flair, travelers seeking more economic accommodation options without sacrificing the convenience of a central location might consider Ibis Budget - Melbourne Cbd. This alternative provides tourists with a affordable yet comfortable stay, ensuring that no matter the budget, the cultural tapestry of Melbourne is accessible to all.
If you're eager to further explore Melbourne's vibrant streets, why not ditch the tram system and opt for a more adventurous mode of transportation? As a guest at The Cullen, you can enjoy complimentary bike rentals, allowing you to effortlessly navigate the city's hidden gems. Alternatively, consider joining Real Melbourne's bike tours, led by knowledgeable guide Murray, who will take you through the enchanting back streets and Victorian shopping arcades that showcase the rich history of this captivating metropolis.
In the realm of chic glamour, Melbourne goes beyond its stylish storefronts, extending the allure into its hip drinking dens. Unveiling the city's intriguing elements to outsiders, Michelle Matthews, an accomplished author of numerous local guidebooks, has devised the Deck of Secrets, a resource readily accessible via an iPhone application. Our rendezvous unravelled at the Newtown Worker's Club (51 Brunswick Street, +3 9415 8889), a trendy Fitzroy-based bar helmed by Jerome Borazio. His impressive portfolio boasts the inception of eight additional budget-friendly yet trendy watering holes dotting the city landscape.
Borazio is a man of many hats, not only breathing life into Melbourne's eclectic bar scene, but also the mastermind behind the city's famed St Jerome's Laneway music festival (30 January). This musical extravaganza sprang to life in 2004, in one of the city's alleyways, replete with a stage on one end and a lively crowd of 1,400 on the other. The innovative idea was later adopted by other hotspots like Sydney, Brisbane, Perth, Adelaide, and even Auckland, New Zealand. Incoming fans have a lot to anticipate at this month's edition, with notable appearances by the likes of Florence and The Machine, Daniel Johnston, and Echo and the Bunnymen, and other performers.
Other hits on the Deck of Secrets list include Double Happiness (21 Liverpool Street, +3 9650 4488), marked simply by Chinese characters painted above a door; The Toff in Town (252 Swanston Street, +3 9639 8770 ), hidden on the third floor of an office block, with completely private railway car booths; and 1806 (169 Exhibition St, +3 9663 7722), which features a list of hundreds of cocktails. The choice is enough to make you feel giddy, but the Old Fashioned, a blend of whisky, sugar and bitters, sounds like the perfect way to end a tour of vintage Melbourne.
British Airways flies London-Melbourne via Singapore from £660.40 rtn inc tax (book by 2 February). The Cullen Hotel (+3 9098 1555), from AU$269 (around £156), room only. The Hidden Secrets Vintage Outing costs $245 per person. Real Melbourne bike tours, $99 for adults, $79 for children. Bookings are essential for both. Deck of Secrets guides cost $9.95. For more information on Melbourne, go to visitvictoria.com.