After many years, I revisited South Wales to witness the transformations that have taken place in the region. Specifically, I explored the beloved coastal towns from my childhood, including Tenby and Pendine, in order to gauge if they still possess the same allure.
Returning to South Wales after decades was a delightful experience. The Welsh language, albeit being unfamiliar to me, added a sense of charm to the surroundings. Although my grasp of Welsh remains limited, I couldn't help but appreciate the musicality of the accents, which seemed incapable of uttering anything unpleasant.
It is worth mentioning that South Welsh accents, despite occasional exceptions, beautifully complement Dylan Thomas' poetry, enchanting listeners with their melodic tone. In addition, the local women effortlessly end their sentences with a sing-songed "cariad," leaving a lasting impression. Exploring the region once more, I noticed just how much has changed since my last visit.
Going back to the heart of Cardiff was among my top memories. The changes in Cardiff were particularly tangible. What served as a strong reflection of this, is when I chose to stay at the Sleeperz Hotel in Cardiff. With its modern amenities and convenient location, it truly embodied the admirable blend of the historical and contemporary that characterizes South Wales today.
On this trip, I made use of an excellent resource for choosing my accommodation. Discovering the array of selections offered by http://www.hotels-wales.com/en/, I was able to find a multitude of choices that fit my needs and preferences. Whether one prefers the comforts of modernity as seen in Sleeperz Hotel, or a more traditional stay, there's something to fit every preference in this charming region.
Returning to South Wales after many years, I was struck by the fond memories that this land holds for me. Its resemblance to my home county of Lancashire in terms of green hills, pastures, mines, sheep, cattle, and a picturesque coastline is only the surface. However, South Wales is steeped in a unique Welsh identity, with its enchanting "abers" and "llans," traditional treats like bara brith and laverbread, and a captivating history that diverges from what I was taught in school. This region has also been home to a remarkable lineup of influential figures who, to varying degrees, forged connections with us.
One of the aspects that particularly resonates with me is the nostalgia for childhood holidays spent with my Welsh grandmother, lovingly referred to as "mamgu," near Carmarthen. I can still vividly recall relishing meals of bacon and broad beans, bubble and squeak, while exploring the breathtaking farmland and South Wales' picturesque coastlines. Those idyllic days were filled with family picnics, complete with a proper wicker basket and a bat for adventurous games of French cricket.
During my recent visit this autumn, I made my way to Tenby, a charming seaside town that has a remarkable ability to embrace its visitors, instantly making them feel like old friends and offering promises of delightful experiences. It's worth noting that Tenby has a rich history as an important port, dating back to the Middle Ages and beyond. In fact, it was in Tenby where Portuguese sailors first introduced oranges to Wales in 1566, leaving an indelible mark on the region's culinary traditions.
Tenby, a charming small holiday town, has a rich history that has shaped its character over the years. Once a thriving 19th-century watering spot, the town went through a decline before experiencing a revival. Today, it continues to welcome visitors with open arms.
As you wander through the medieval walls of Tenby, you can't help but be captivated by the labyrinth of stone streets, adorned in delightful pastel shades - from soft pinks and blues to creams and pale yellows. Against the backdrop of majestic cliffs and sandy shores, there's an undeniable buzz of excitement that permeates the air. However, in recent times, the town has embraced a more vibrant and lively atmosphere. Shop signs now vie for attention with their bold messages, adding to the overall energetic ambiance.
Reflecting back to the 1960s, the town was quite different, as there were no nail bars, tattoos, or fast food joints. The bar staff didn't greet customers with an enthusiastic "Enjoy, guys." Instead, a jug of tea was more likely to accompany a day at the beach, rather than a glass of the local pub's Jack Rabbit rosé wine, which, to be honest, tasted more like rose-hip syrup than wine itself, evoking nostalgic memories of the 1950s.
Visiting Tenby today, you'll find a place that honors its past while also embracing modernity. Although it has evolved and changed over time, the essence of Tenby's enchantment remains constant, drawing visitors from far and wide.
Despite the enduring charm of this coastal town in South Wales, marked changes have taken place since my last visit decades ago. The feeling of genteel hospitality remains, and there is still an air of festivity in the atmosphere. If only there were more companions to partake in a game of cricket together.
While the hills remain as steep as ever and the castle proudly stands upon its perch, it was disheartening to find the museum and the Tudor Merchant’s House closed for the day. It appears that the British tourist industry has a peculiar inclination to close precisely when one requires their services. As a local patron at a nearby restaurant aptly expressed, "No food after 5pm."
However, despite these minor obstacles, South Wales continues to beckon visitors with its timeless allure. The picturesque landscapes, steeped in history, seamlessly blend with the warmth of its inhabitants. With countless activities and attractions to explore, it is a region that guarantees unforgettable memories.
During my recent visit to South Wales, I was captivated by the picturesque old lighthouse standing tall on Caldey Island. Built in 1829, this historic landmark serves as a reminder of the region's rich maritime heritage.
However, my plans to explore the island further were thwarted by the unpredictable coastal winds, which made sailing to the nearby abbey impossible. While I initially felt a pang of disappointment, my feelings quickly changed when I discovered the unsettling truth about the abbey's recent past involving child sex scandals.
Instead, my thoughts turned to the remarkable achievements of Robert Recorde, a brilliant 16th-century mathematician from Tenby. It was here that he invented the equals sign (=), a symbol I had always taken for granted.
As I reflect on my visit, I am reminded of the fluidity of time and how things that once seemed immutable can change drastically over the years. The old lighthouse stands as a silent witness to the passage of time, while the revelations surrounding the abbey serve as a stark reminder of the dark underbelly that can sometimes lurk beneath the surface.
These newfound insights have deepened my appreciation for the history and complexities of South Wales, and I look forward to further exploring the region's multifaceted past.
Returning to South Wales after decades, I found that some aspects had changed while others remained the same. As I strolled along the seaside at Saundersfoot, I was pleasantly surprised to see Mr Whippy still operating his beloved ice-cream van, evoking a sense of nostalgia. It was a charming sight that transported me back to childhood memories of enjoying summer treats.
Embarking on a drive through the hilly terrain, we navigated narrow farm lanes, reminiscent of a shepherd's staff, where boy racers on oversized tractors sped by without yielding to oncoming traffic. Maneuvering our hire car in these tight spaces, I honed my high-speed reversing skills - a thrilling yet slightly nerve-wracking experience.
While some may argue that Pendine has little to offer, claiming, as Byron Rogers did, that "there's nothing at Pendine," it is not entirely devoid of attractions. Stretching for miles, the beach is a prominent feature, offering a peaceful sanctuary amid the natural beauty of the region. Whether it's five, eight, or nine miles long, opinions may differ, but its serene ambiance is undeniable.
The stunning and extensive beach at Pendine has a rich history, not only as a picturesque location but also as the backdrop for some incredible land speed records in the 1920s. Renowned racing drivers Malcolm Campbell and JG Parry-Thomas pushed the boundaries, reaching speeds well beyond 175mph on the firm, unending sands. Tragically, Parry-Thomas lost his life during one of these attempts in 1927, adding a somber note to the beach's legacy.
Pendine Sands, though still a popular destination, also has a darker side associated with military activity throughout the years. Caution is advised, as scattered military debris can pose a danger. A sign placed further down the beach serves as a reminder, explicitly warning visitors not to touch any remnants, as they could potentially explode. Naturally, this can put a damper on a family holiday if military artifacts become an unexpected hazard.
Despite its historical significance and potential risks, Pendine Beach continues to attract visitors who appreciate its natural beauty and fascinating past. For those interested in the land speed record history, a future attraction called the Sands of Speed experience is set to replace the previous Museum of Speed. Excitingly, construction is currently underway and anticipated to be completed by February. It will undoubtedly provide a captivating insight into the daring feats and tragic tales that have unfolded on this remarkable coastline.
As I returned to South Wales after several decades, my recollections were far from the loud explosions that once filled the air. Instead, they were filled with vivid images of scratchy woollen trunks, delightful tomato sandwiches served on unclipped picnic plates, and the taste of tea from the green cups it was poured into. The vast expanse of sky and the gentle shelving of the sea, which could have easily transported one to Devon, held a special place in my memories.
Those vibrant days were also marked by games of French cricket, with the whole family running, shouting, and being playfully pursued by my father and uncles in their shirts and ties. The sight of my majestic grandmother, dressed entirely in black and wearing a hat held in place by a hatpin, completed the picture. However, as I revisited Pendine, I discovered that the place I once knew could never remain the same. It had inevitably transformed over time, as all things do.
Upon reaching Laugharne, a quaint town nestled alongside the vast Taf estuary, I couldn't help but think of the legendary poet Dylan Thomas and his connection to this place. With its timeless charm and captivating beauty, Laugharne truly embodies Thomas' words as "a mild and beguiling island of a town."
Although we didn't have the fortune of spotting any herons on the "heron-priested shore," it became clear why Thomas held a fascination for these majestic birds. The boathouse, which was purchased for him by Margaret Taylor, provided a retreat for the bronchial herons. However, with the abundance of water around, it wasn't the most suitable environment for an asthmatic chain-smoker like Thomas.
As we approached the picturesque cabin on nearby rocks, where Thomas spent countless hours writing, I couldn't help but feel a sense of reverence. Peering through the window, the cabin had been meticulously restored to its original state, with scrunched up papers strewn across the floor, an ashtray overflowing with ashes, and Thomas' jacket hanging on the chair. The walls were adorned with fading photographs of literary figures such as DH Lawrence and WH Auden, as well as prints, including one that I couldn't quite identify.
In the quaint village, Browns was the local pub where he frequented. (Unfortunately, it was closed.) Throughout the stretch between Fishguard and Swansea, many pubs proudly boast of hosting Thomas during his intoxicated escapades. Fond memories of him were shared, with one contemporary recalling his teeth as haphazardly arranged as though "thrown from a distance."
However, it is vital to recognize that Thomas' reputation as a drinker sometimes overshadows his remarkable writing, which I argue is as mesmerizing, harmonious, and challenging as the Taf river itself. One doesn't require a complete understanding to be captivated, as demonstrated by Robert Lowell's description of Thomas as a "dazzling obscure writer who can be enjoyed without understanding."
He poetically described the boathouse as a "seashaken house/ On a breakneck of rocks". If I were capable of producing such evocative phrases or "Do not go gentle into that good night but rage, rage against the dying of the light," I would have retired early, just like Thomas did.
The Ever-Evolving Charm of Carmarthen
Carmarthen, the oldest town in Wales, holds a rich tapestry of memories as the cherished backdrop of our cherished family holidays. Returning after decades, I expected to find a changed landscape, and indeed, at first glance, the town appeared somewhat depleted, with vacant shops and a lackluster indoor market. However, this initial impression didn't tell the whole story.
Amidst the perceived dwindling vibrancy, I noticed a subtle transformation in both the physical demeanor and weight of the people casually strolling the streets. It seems that, akin to other parts of Britain, the average weight of pedestrians has noticeably increased since the 1960s. Now, please note that this is not a critique on body image but simply an observation.
However, first impressions are often deceptive. Carmarthen, a town steeped in history, holds numerous hidden depths waiting to be explored. It proudly boasts some notable figures as native sons and daughters. For instance, it is the birthplace of Ken Owens, a prominent hooker in the rugby world, and Nicky Stevens, a member of the acclaimed Brotherhood of Man and the sole Welsh artist to have triumphed at the Eurovision Song Contest.
Beyond these well-known achievements, Carmarthen has even more tales to tell. In the darkest days of history, when religious persecution thrived, Bishop Robert Ferrar met a gruesome fate as he was burned at the stake right here, during the Marian Persecutions. Reflecting the enduring spirit of defiance, Thomas Evans faced ridicule and punishment at the hands of English oppressors for boldly singing The Marseillaise in Welsh. His defiant act of solidarity continues to resonate: "Dewch blant y Famwlad / Cyrhaeddodd diwrnod gogoniant" (Come, children of the Motherland / The day of glory has arrived).
Experience the ever-evolving charm and captivating history of Carmarthen, a town that transcends initial impressions.
I had the pleasure of returning to Carmarthen town in South Wales after several decades, and I was amazed by the changes that had taken place. The town exudes a sense of confidence and contentment, evident in its refusal to seek approval from others.
As my companion and I wandered through the sunlit streets, we were captivated by the rich tapestry of Welsh culture. The castle, the majestic River Tywi, and the lilting conversations in Welsh filled the air, immersing us in the town's vibrant heritage. Our footsteps led us to The Vaults pub, where we were warmly greeted by the smiling barman and fellow patrons.
Standing beside the statue of Sir William Nott, a celebrated figure from the 19th-century Afghan war, we couldn't help but feel a connection to the past. The sense of community was palpable, and it seemed that everyone we encountered was genuinely pleased to welcome us back to Wales.
Amidst this delightful atmosphere, we indulged in a delicious lunch of sandwiches, perfectly complementing our nostalgic journey. It was a testament to the town's commitment to quality and hospitality, leaving us with a lasting impression.
Carmarthen town has truly embraced its evolution while retaining its authentic charm. It's a place where traditions thrive alongside progress, and where visitors like us are greeted with genuine warmth. If you have the chance, I highly recommend experiencing the magic of this transformed South Welsh gem.
We continued our journey, traveling through lush, verdant landscapes until we reached the quaint village of Drefach. This is where my grandmother resided, perched mid-way on a hill, until the 1970s. It felt almost like a dream when we gently knocked on the door of her house. The door was cheerfully answered by an aged lady. Upon explaining our connection to the place, we were warmly invited into the front room, a space that immediately sparked memories. This point marked the threshold where emotions might get intense.
If you're wondering where to stay:
Look no further than the Spilman Hotel in Carmarthen. This Georgian townhouse offers excellent value for money, providing comfortable accommodation in a historical setting (spilmanhotel.co.uk; B&B doubles start at £78).
Only a short five-minute drive from Tenby, the Penally Abbey is a remarkable splendor. Its elegance has recently earned it recognition as the best in Wales by the Good Hotel Guide in the current month (penally-abbey.com; B&B doubles start from £135).
You would appreciate knowing that both these hotels boast of excellent service and have received rave reviews from guests. The Spilman Hotel is particularly known for its friendly staff and homely charm, while Penally Abbey is noted for its magnificent views and serene surroundings.